_format-1500w.png)
By Malene Birger – CPHFW SS22: The Draping Genius
The textile, draping genius has done it again. By Malene Birger wowed in an epic, free-flowing yet formative SS22. In previous collections, Maja Dixdotter, Head of Design at the Danish fashion house, usually takes her inspiration from the realms of furniture, sculpture, and architecture. In this sense, this season was no different; tunics, sweater-vests, floor-length dresses, and matching pant sets in luxurious fabrics. But then again, that’s what By Malene Birger does best.
The SS22 collection was displayed in a tent-like space; white fabric sheltering the designs. The draping of the tent aligned with the draping of the clothing and the collection felt otherworldly. “Following the narrative we began in pre-spring, we worked again with chunky detailing, almost-ready garments, and bold prints, while also maintaining that balance in contrast and duality we try to achieve each season; old with new, rough with clean. Our most feminine and fluid styles are grounded by resolutely flat footwear and classic styles have something a little ‘off’ about them to create balance.”
The brand’s DNA consists of clothing that perfectly fits a woman’s body, with each piece being flattering while also shaping. This is best seen in the way certain pieces, like the dreamy velour dress or even the trench coat perfectly cinch at the waist. Even on a screen, the fabrics scream luxury comfort. And while the brand tends to lean towards relaxed fits, this season was an awakened relax, with the use of unique fabrics like a velvet velour. Typically, the colour palette of the collection featured nudes, creams, blacks and whites, but also slightly deviated with the appearance of burnt orange, yellow, burgundy and even some stripes. A welcome introduction indeed. The item that every Scandi It-Girl, nevermind, every girl wants? A coat with fur detailing on the sleeves. Who wouldn’t want such a statement piece?!
By Malene Birger at its’ core has always been a sustainable and environmentally oriented brand. With this in mind, their SS22 collection was scaled down, enabling a focus on perfect detailing to make sure each piece was fine-tuned. The brand has also moved production to be more local and closer to home in Denmark. Furthermore, pieces of the collection are made from recycled materials and deadstock fabric, the best use of fabric for the environment.
Rather than creating something entirely different, By Malene Birger continues their story with SS22, creating something that is undeniably aligned with the brand, this in itself is a feat. There is no guessing or uncertainty. When you see By Malene Birger, you know it’s By Malene Birger.