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SFW SS21 – DIEMONDE: A Beacon of Prosperity in Sweden’s Immigrant World
We featured DIEMONDE back in our first print issue, and have been following as Creative Director Angelo da Silveira has taken the label from a just another small urbanwear brand, to a brand at the forefront of inclusivity, sustainability and local production in Stockholm. DIEMONDE is still only a small production, but its values are big, and Angelo’s ‘Made in Sweden’ moniker is the perfect way to sum up what the brand is and does.
Basing the autumn/winter collection on streetwear with Scandi minimalism as its base, the pieces are well made, simple and trans-seasonal. The focus here is less on what the pieces are, but more about how they have been manufactured – Angelo has setup a factory that specialises in small batch, eco-friendly production called Fugeetex, which he plans to open up to local, like-minded designers who want to create their collection in Sweden, and in a sustainable manner. Parts of the new DIEMONDE collection are made from leftover fabrics, but all of it is modelled on familiar shapes from the brand’s previous collections, something I enjoy seeing – if people are buying a particular shape over and over again, give them more of it in a way.
The brand’s classic boxy jacket, is reimagined in orange wool, grey plaid and deadstock fabric from an old upholstery brand. The vests come in black and pinstripe, the trousers are straight legged and flattering for both men and women, the collection is easy for anyone to wear. This is the central point behind DIEMONDE, to be accessible.
“We strive to create a common ground, designed to inspire the youth to be brave, disruptive, and powerful. The kind of common ground we were ourselves missing from the fashion scene while chasing our dreams to create modern expressions for Swedish culture. Our recipe to combine street culture with timeless and minimalistic design have kept us true to our identity and values.”
The brand’s collection video, shows a Swedish man of foreign descent, talking about it feels to be a foreigner in Sweden – how it feels to be part and not part of the Swedish community. DIEMONDE’s fashion answer to this, is their minimal collection that takes inspiration from the streets, where foreigners in Sweden and all over the world, find their communities. The ‘answer’ is subtle, but understandable, and the collection’s slogan ‘Save the Youth’ is a nod to Angelo’s want to foster an environment where immigrants can feel safe, grow and prosper – Angelo’s family moved to Sweden from war-torn Togo [in West Africa] as refugees in 1997, and it is this life changing experience, that is a centre of everything the designer does.
Would I have liked to see more of the clothes, and less of the concept? Yes, with ‘attention to detail’ being one of the brand’s core principles, I was looking forward to seeing this. But, I appreciate the message behind the campaign, and am looking forward to seeing how DIEMONDE and Fugeetex progress.
You can watch the AW20 collection film HERE.