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Nadia Wire: Innovative, future-proof Knitwear and reimagined manufacturing
Shortly after the brand’s conception in 2020, the colours, quirk and novelty of Nadia Wire’s knitwear caught our attention – it was love at first sight! With knitwear at its core, the entire existence of ‘Nadia Wire’ evolved around developing innovative knitting techniques, responsible production methods and wearable styles, meanwhile, keeping an experiential, colourful and authentic approach. All the brand’s garments are developed and manufactured in Nadia’s own knitting factory, located on the outskirts of Copenhagen, on a solely made-to-order basis. I sat down for a chat with Nadia herself, where we discussed her vision for her brand and her fight to change the way clothes are manufactured. Go on, read on…
Photos: Stephanie Geddes
How would you describe the aesthetic universe of Nadia Wire?
In our Wire World, we consider knitwear to be an adventure that needs to be explored. To do so, we use aesthetic tools such as colourful patterns and playful shapes to design bold knitwear that conveys individuality. Our garments are conceived for all wardrobes and body shapes, and designed to be inclusive, embracing, and celebrative.
An important part of our universe is the desire to also express versatility in the knits. Since our first 3 drops consisted of primarily very fine fabrics, the general perception of Nadia Wire has been that we only produce lightweight and fitted bodycon pieces, which we have now shown with our new drop 4 it is not the case. We are on a constant knitting adventure that will continue to evolve in directions I cannot predict. The only thing that will stay consistent is that knitwear will continue to be leading force of the brand.
“The heart and soul of the brand is knitwear, and it is what our entire existence evolves around. In our Wire World, we consider knitwear to be an adventure that needs to be explored.”
How did you come up with the idea to establish your brand, Nadia Wire?
After having worked for many different brands over the years (both main street, high end, and couture), I needed a break from the whole ‘fashion game’ where you constantly need to move on to new collections. As a result of working in an industry, where it seems, there was never really the time to explore, reflect or analyse ideas fully, the urge to do something different emerged. I wanted to establish a brand where manufacturing was incorporated into the brands existence. Besides that, it is important to me not to let the traditional fashion calendar (AW or SS) dictate our creative process. We avoid this, by launching our drops according to our own schedule, and without labelling our collections according to seasons.
How does it feel to be your own boss?
To be honest it is not something I think too much about, as I have always been used to working very independently with my creative process and to always set guidelines and deadlines for myself, which is essential when you start your own company.
“I think in general we need more female leaders in the industry, and I feel honoured that I am able to contribute to the establishment of female leaders.”
Before my team was established, I spend a lot of time reflecting how I want to be as a leader. As I have experience myself working in many different types of teams and under various types of leaderships, both good and bad, I definetetly know the importance of having an efficient and harmonious team. Therefore, it is very important to me that my team feels comfortable, heard, and guided in their working environment.
When you develop new collections, what elements are most important to you?
The most important thing to me, is that every collection is created from a textile point of view, which will allow the yarns, techniques and colours used to form the storyline, concept, and shape of each collection. I want to tribute to knitwear, while I challenge it. Equally important is that I continue to keep my own language as a textile designer and not be influenced.
Therefore, I don’t’ work in the traditional ‘design method way’: where you plan out the concept, type of products and prices beforehand, also called range plans. I don’t want to restrict any process of the design stage or to force any products in a collection. Instead, I create collections that evolves organically around the fabric’s possibilities. I work very fluidly across the design and development stage, when creating a collection. For example, once an idea occurs to me, I go to my product developer, who sits just next door to me, so we can test the idea and explore its possi
Photo: Stephanie Geddes
What makes your production methods unique and sustainable?
I wouldn’t say that our production methods are unique or sustainable. Our way of producing knitwear is in a sense very traditional and it is how most luxury brands manufacture their products at factories all over the world. I don’t think it is possible to claim, when you work in the fashion industry, that you manufacture sustainable garments. Of course, you can (and should) take mindful decisions, which is what we do at Nadia Wire:
All our pieces are manufactured at our knitting factory in Denmark, where we operate under a small scale and a made to order vision. I believe, one of the ways to address overproduction is simply to match supply and demand. Therefore, we don’t produce our pieces until we have received an order neither it being from our retailers or e-commerce platforms. I simply don’t believe in mass production, and I think a production facility should always try to minimize its waste, which is why I have incorporated different ‘waste awareness’ initiatives from the start.
“We don’t produce our pieces until we have received an order neither it being from our retailers or e-commerce platforms. I simply don’t believe in mass production, and I think a production facility should always try to minimise its waste, which is why I have incorporated different ‘waste awareness’ initiatives from the start.”
One of our initiatives is that we code/program all our fabrics directly to the knitting machine, which means that every fabric that comes out of the machine is shaped according to the products shape (sleeves, front pattern etc.), also called fully fashioning. That way we avoid any unnecessary materials when producing our garments, as we don’t need to cut away any excessive material, as it has already been minimized beforehand. Besides that, we also knit in our labels, trims, and waistbands into the products fabric, as it is being knitted on the machine. That way, we limit the number of pattern parts that needs to be knitted to assemble a product. Another initiative is that the textile waste that does occur in our knitting factory we always keep for future use. Either we re- spin the yarns so we can reknit with it, or we use our scraps for sampling/protos etc.
Again, all these initiatives are neither unique or groundbreaking. But what makes us unique is that all our departments work side by side under one roof. As a result, we skip many chains by working this way and consequently we have a mindful knitting production.
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What is in the future of Nadia Wire – will you stay put in your Copenhagen studio?
Yes, the brand and the knitting factory works simultaneously together: one cannot exist without the other. Since the establishment of the company, we have invested substantial amount in our present facility, located in Søborg: Where we have transformed an old industrial building into a modern fully functional knitting factory. This makes it possible for us to expand our knitting factory significantly therefore we have no intentions to outsource the production at any point. Eventually the long-term goal is for the brand to continue to expand our production facility and the team, so we can eventually work fully closed loop in everything we do and always keeping every department beneath one roof.
Right now, we are focusing on expanding our sales internationally, which is also why we have joined forces with an international sales agency. We have just finished our first season with them, and the response has been overwhelming from buyers, and within the next 6 months our collections will be available at selected retailers in Japan, UK and New Zealand, just to name a few.
What kind of impact do you wish to make, with your brand?
It was always my goal to inspire others and contribute with a positive mindful manufacturing movement, which is much needed in the fashion industry. I started this journey in order to bring the textile production back to Denmark and in general to bring more awareness to local and mindful production. So hopefully, my journey will inspire others to think outside of the box and to incorporate thoughtful initiatives in their businesses.