CPHFW AW20 – Søren Le Schmidt: A Firm Foundation

Held in a familiar corporate setting of Nordea Bank, the presentation of one of Denmark’s finest work was a dynamic finale to day one of Copenhagen Fashion Week AW20. Blending his flair for traditional tailoring with unexpected flashes of colour and hardware straight out of a space shuttle, Søren Le Schmidt proved once more his fashion army stands as strong and united as every season.

 

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

 

With a high-tech backdrop and clockwork choreography sending models down the glass elevator, Søren Le Schmidt’s show opened on a tribute note to his beloved pinstripe, a classic navy and white pairing that gave us the ultimate mob boss vibes. Then came the inmate orange, explored in both ready-to-wear and red carpet contexts, that only Le Schmidt knows how to pull off.

A surge of all-black Matrix looks that came later were broken abruptly with four pieces made from vibrant ombre satin, shortly filling up the room with bright tangerine, that quickly faded away into purple and black again. Such small pops of brightness against the tar-coloured code of conduct has become somewhat of a signature of Le Schmidt’s collections – this time, we saw more of them than usual, and we loved it!

 

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

 

What we were, and always are, particularly fond of when it comes to Le Schmidt, is the unchanging coherence when it comes to themes running through his entire line. Continuously faithful to his decorum, Søren Le Schmidt equipped all of his models with details that subtly bound them into the SLS gang; from the edgy chokers and belts created in collaboration with PILGRIM jewellery, to the asymmetrical flounce on tops and gala dresses, all the way to the cosmetic mark of affiliation with the silver and cobalt eyeliner.

 

Søren Le Schmidt

Søren Le Schmidt

 

As the show drew to a close and the heavy platform boots marched together to the immortal “Close to Me” by The Cure, we watched the full collection in its entirety, in awe of how we’re still not getting bored at all. Søren Le Schmidt has a strong, established aesthetic on the Danish fashion scene, and outside of occasional experimentation, he doesn’t stray from the righteous style path that much. We however, do not really mind – as long as he remains as impeccable, consistent and detail-oriented as always.


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