We know finding the right foundation for your skintone/skin type is not fun. And we’re also aware that the process can be time assuming, but like everything in life “you have to kiss a few frogs, before finding your prince”, and the same goes for your foundation. It’s a journey, but when you finally get the right one, it’s the best feeling ever!
There are endless ways to find your perfect match, so we spoke to Sephora International Pro Team Artist Regitze Krabbe, and asked her all of our burning foundation questions, including how to find your perfect shade and the best application methods, that will hopefully make your hunt for the perfect foundation easier.
Choosing the right foundation for your skin tone/type can be very stressful and time assuming. What should we look for when picking foundation to make the process easier?
In truth – it is a jungle, so Sephora offers a session to our clients, to help them to choose the right colour. Our job is to guide you and share our expertise, so you can choose the colour that is right for them. I always recommend approaching it systematically and with enough time; When talking about the right colour, be ready to do some swatching and preferably come without makeup on. The biggest thing in matching foundations is seeing. Swatch 3 colours from your cheekbone to your neck, and also try your selection on your forehead – we have so many tones in our skin, and seeing how the colours interact with each of them will ensure a closer match. If you are not sure of your undertone, I always recommend doing the same, but with different undertones, selected in your preferred depth – Fenty Beauty is a great help here. Seeing them all together on your skin will be able to help you see which is closer to your skintone.
Are there any common foundation mistakes that people make and why do you think these mistakes are so common?
Mistake is a loose term in makeup, but I do find that a lot of people use a lot of product. It often makes the formula break down faster and doesn’t wear as nicely throughout the day. You can always add a second layer in an area that needs more coverage, but why use up your product faster, when it could be avoided. In truth, a foundation is made to have friends help it – most notably your skincare to nourish and make your skin look healthy, a primer to fit the foundation you’ve chosen to your skin type, and a concealer to assist with coverage in areas where you need it.
Why do you think people have such a hard time finding the right shade?
I know it can be difficult to navigate, in-store, with varying lighting, so many brands and so little time. People tend to go for quick fixes when it should be something they spend time choosing. Get some help, the staff know the store and the products, and can easily guide you to a good fit, and we offer free mini makeovers, where your try on formulas, as well as share tips for application etc. Most likely you will find a foundation that feels right for you, and luckily, at Sephora, you can get a sample of that colour to try – that way you can test-drive it in your natural habitat (and lighting), to make sure it is the right fit, before you open, and commit to the product. Take into consideration that your skin also changes colour throughout the year; I know it’s a chore, but when you find that perfect formula, I recommend getting matched to it both in the summer and winter. That way you have your to most extreme shades and you can mix them throughout the year for a shade that is always perfect.
Lighter skintones, have a tendency towards redness, so if your only try a foundation colour on one of your redder areas, it will almost always look off. So always try the same foundation on different areas of your face. For darker skin, the undertone of the foundation becomes even more important, as using the wrong undertone will make you look grey. I always suggest (either in-store, or with a sample at home) to try on your forehead, your cheek, neck, and chest, leave one side of the swatch unblended, and the other blended into your skin. This is the easiest way to make sure it will match all over, and that you’ve found the right undertone for you.
What are your top 3 tips for applying foundation like a pro?
1. Always apply your foundation to clean and well-moisturised skin! Dirty and dehydrated skin is a cocktail for early caking, and excessive oil production throughout the day.
2. Use less than you think, and even less in areas that move, like around the nose, smile lines and between your brows – product in ‘moving areas’ will crease, if they are covered in a lot of product.
3. For that ‘I’m not wearing foundation, I just have great skin’ look I will often use 2 formulas. One light coverage, thin formula all over, and then a stick foundation, or a thicker, semi-matte liquid formula, in areas where I want to build up the coverage.
Do you have a favourite foundation this season, and why?
I love many, but two of my favourites are the Sephora Collection 10hr Wear; an underrated product, with medium, but buildable coverage, and it has a beautiful satin matte finish, that can be adjusted easily, and lasts SO long on your skin. The other is the Milk Makeup Flex Foundation Stick. It has a gorgeous hydrating finish and feel on your skin, and is super quick to apply and blend. As with most foundation sticks, it works beautifully on textured skin, and can easily be layered in areas where more coverage is needed.
If you could use only 1 foundation for the rest of your life which one would it be and why?
That is a brutal question to ask a makeup artist. Maybe if I had to choose, it would be something like the Hourglass Vanish Foundation Stick – something that I can vary in coverage and finish, and that works well with my other products. I am truly hoping I’ll never have to make that decision in real life!
The average girl owns 3-4 foundations, do you think that we need that many foundations? How many foundations do you recommend owning?
How many foundations is the right number, is entirely up to your beauty routine, how adventurous you are, and your expertise. I previously mentioned that I prefer to have a few to play with, different coverage levels, and finishes, from radiant and dewy, to matte and long-lasting. But if you don’t wear much makeup, or you just want that one foundation that you can always count on, 1 should be fine. But the ideal answer in my world is 3: 1 for evening time events (slightly more coverage, and long-lasting), 1 for summer daytime (lighter coverage and maybe more on the matte side to combat shine), and 1 for winter daytime (medium coverage for redness from the cold, and a with a bit more hydration included).
Sponge or brush, and why?
The pros to a sponge are that it is fast to apply, and it adds extra hydration to the application, the dabbing motions are great for textured skin. The cons are that it is more difficult to vary the coverage and that it needs to be changed very regularly if you want optimal application and a clean, bacteria-free sponge. Brushes come in more variety; Buffing brushes for quick, high coverage application, and thicker textures. Flat brushes for an application where you can smooth over texture, and where you can easily vary the coverage in specific areas, work well for all liquid formulas. Stippling brushes offer a soft, light and skin-like application, and are ideal for light, thin foundation formulas – it all comes down to your skin’s preferences. I carry all versions in my kit, so I can with ease, say that all application solutions have their benefits, only you know what fits best to your routine.
What foundation/foundation routine do you recommend for people with dry skin?
For dry skin, your pre-makeup steps become doubly important, will make a huge difference in how textured, dry and flaky your skin looks with makeup on. All texture gets enhanced the more makeup products you apply, so think thin layers. A good rule of thumb is also to go for foundation formulas that do not set to a waterproof or powdery finish. Though long-wearing, they do not look very flattering on dry skin, whereas a smoother, softer, more hydrating formula, will look good.
How about oily skin?
For oily skin, skin texture is rarely an issue, and you are left with a very wide choice of formulas, when it comes to texture and finish. The important thing here is to know how to make things work for your skin, a primer that helps oil production and longevity, and a good powder. Get to know your skin – how does it react? Am I oily everywhere or only in specific areas? Does my skin react well to creamier textures, or is it better with oil-free formulas? I know longevity is a challenge, and maybe you will have to touch up during the day to stay flawless. One thing for me is that, unless your doctor has specifically told you so, there is no reason to avoid formulas with oils in them, they tend to sit more comfortably on the skin and look softer, and more skin-like.
And acne-prone skin?
People that have acne-prone skin generally have a couple of things they need to keep in mind and tackle; texture, flaky areas, sensitivity, and coverage. Firstly, find a good skincare regime that feels comfortable, and should include an oil. A face oil is great for softening scarring and flaky skin that comes after acne. My second piece of advice is to not switch things up too much, product wise, the less you aggravate your skin the happier it will be. That goes for foundation and primer as well. I suggest a hydrating primer, and a foundation that is creamy in texture and doesn’t set to powder finish. Stick foundations like the Makeup For Ever Ultra HD Stick Foundation are great, as they can vary in coverage, and sit very well on textured skin.
If you have acne-prone skin and like a light foundation, I recommend getting a good long-wearing stick concealer, like the Marc Jacobs Beauty Accomplice Concealer, that you can apply underneath a light foundation to cover blemishes. The good thing about this type of concealer is that they pack an incredible amount of pigment. You do not need to apply much, and because of the high viscosity, you can blend it, keeping the coverage exactly where you want and need it. Applying concealer under your foundation ensures that the finish after applying your foundation is even and flawless, without looking like you are wearing a lot of makeup.
I’ve heard that using a primer before applying foundation is just a myth and won’t really do anything for the application/longevity of the foundation, is this true?
Primers are definitely the subject of much chatter. I am of the belief and conviction that primers definitely work – but as with all makeup, it’s not real magic. They do not, and can’t, do everything. Some are great for helping with texture, and some help with longevity. Primers are moving to do other things – as innovation in foundation increases – link enhance the benefits of your moisturiser or foundation. As a makeup artist, I consider a primer as a step that bridges your skin type, and skincare, to your foundation and your desired finish. For example, if you have oily skin and love a radiant finish; you need a moisturiser to secure your skin’s health, and a foundation with a radiant finish, but this won’t stay put on oily skin, so that’s where primer comes in.
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Tags: beauty tips, Foundation, Foundation tips, make-up tips, makeup tips
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