CPHFW SS20 – Munthe: Pretty in Punk, But No Rhythm

With a commercial reach and plenty of panache, Munthe was bound to create a loud show for us, and it certainly did not disappoint. Held once more at the raw factory space of The Plant, the brand had unlimited possibilities to make this SS20 show a memorable experience. As we entered, large inflatable sculptures straight out a modern art gallery were revealed. Similarly to last season’s idea, the models were to weave between the obstacles in a rehearsed manner. This time, there was also another surprise waiting – a powerful performance by a punk band Velvet Volume, to which the models began to strut angrily.

 

Munthe

Munthe

Munthe

 

Abstract forms repeated throughout the collection emerged through garments lazily draped over one shoulder, or wrapped around the body and stuffed into a pocket (never wearing any outwear, the basic old way again!). Geometric shapes introduced in the stage design reappeared on the clothing, making powder pink, sky blue and burnt siena the leading colour palette. The omnipresent Munthe emblem made an appearance here and there, but abstract faces inspired by the famous sculptor Constantin Brâncuși completely stole the show. Paired with brushed eyebrows a la Glossier and festival cornrows, it was a bait any modern IT-girl would happily swallow.

 

Munthe

 

“The collection is decorated and ornamented, extravagant and eclectic, without compromising the overarching signatures of Munthe’s design; quality, comfort and functionality.”

 

Munthe

Munthe

 

Looking back at our previous experiences with Munthe, we can’t shake the feeling of being too ‘full’ every time. Each show prepared by Naja Munthe is a rich meal consisting of multiple dishes, where the mixture of flavours eventually discourage the palate from further tasting. There are traceable sub-categories to Munthe’s collections, which we absolutely love separately – glued together, they become simply too all-consuming and chaotic to see the brand’s vision clearly. Nevertheless, the individual outfits made us repeat Velvet Volume’s punk chant “I think I need you” like a mantra – we just struggled to latch onto a theme overall. Do we love it? Yes. Do we think less could be more? Yes.


Click here for more Copenhagen Fashion Week SS20 coverage >>>