We arrived at a square downtown in central Copenhagen for Henrik Vibskov’s SS20 show, and immediately spotted tall pillars made out of piled up inflated figures, forming a circle around a group of uniformed workers. The uniforms had hints of samurai features, including a narrow hair bun and shoulder straps over a cotton kimono. It appeared to be some kind of fabric where the mission was to keep air pumping into the inflated figures, which could be perceived as a type of live ring. On the pillars, it read “Stuck under the surface”, and helped create a theme of entrapment – The workers were trapped in their never ending tasks, inside their air-pumping-fabric, and kept doing so from the beginning to the very end of the show.
This entrapment thread continued to be apparent throughout the show, especially in the styling and accessories. The majority of the models wore headpieces that covered the sides of their head, which acted as a barrier, creating a certain amount of tunnel vision for the participants. Furthermore, some models walked in geisha-like platform shoes, where standard pumps were inserted into a foam sole. Not only did the pumps seem stuck in the foam, but the models were also stuck wearing those shoes, which restrained their every move.
At one point a model tripped over her shoes, but she keeps going on strong! Although this was a mistake, we found it quite illustrative to the theme of entrapment – she had to keep on going, she was trapped in this situation and trapped in the shoes. Unfortunately we felt trapped in worrying about if any further accidents like that would happen on the runway, which removed focus from the actual show – but I guess that’s one way of experiencing entrapment? The message was very clear in any case!
The collection told multiple stories of aesthetics, each with its’ own color palette and prints. Although this meant that there were tons of different expressions going on, there was yet a very clear shared vision, through persistent silhouettes and shapes, as well as styling features. This made the collection work so brilliantly together, enabling a mix and match of everything it contained. The accessorising and styling were very elaborate and embraced quirky elements, and we loved how every detail was thought through; how the gloves matched the dress, how the cap matched the coat, and how every single mix of prints was on fleek. This collection brought so much charming oddity, so many interesting textures, beautiful prints and colors, and it all mixed and matched excellently, providing endless outfit possibilities.
Henrik Vibskov showed us range in so many aspects, making the collection wearable for young and old, for every gender and could be expressed and styled in a multitude of ways. There was everything from pyjamas suits to cocktail dresses, and from kimonos to trench coats. We want it all! We applaud the amazing artistry of Henrik Vibskov, his brilliance at maintaining originality through revival while staying true to his brand and identity, it is truly inspiring.
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Tags: Copenhagen Fashion Week, cphfw, fashion, Henrik Vibskov, SS20
Særós Mist is a creative romantic from Iceland, based in Copenhagen. She is a fashion designer and clothier, and a freelance writer with great interrest in style and art. Currently she is pursuing a bachelor’s degree at Copenhagen Business School, in Business Administration & Psychology.
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