CPHFW AW19: VIA Design – Reconstructing Societal Norms

It is our opinion, Copenhagen Fashion Week’s most inspiring shows are the ones where fresh graduates get to present their visions and creations. At this year’s VIA Design graduate show at CIFF, sixteen talented fashion design graduates charmed us with their mini collections and stories of unique aesthetics.

By the end of the show we felt two main themes had emerged; the first one was an experimentation with societal norms and gender-specific clothing – reconstructed suits and shirts appeared in several of the collections, where new unisex shapes were created out of formal menswear, and classic symbols of masculinity and femininity were broken down, and moulded into a new way of understanding gender through clothing. The second theme we noticed was mental disorders; a number of the collections built their stories around psychological diagnoses like depression, anxiety and madness, where fabric, print and form were used to express human emotions and mental states of the modern society.

We were deeply impressed by all the young designers insight and interest in current societal matters, as well as their bravery for addressing them in such a genuine way. We’ve chosen our four favorites, to share with you this time, but we encourage everyone to go to the VIA Design website to see the graduates’ lookbooks, and explore their collection and stories.


Shanice Marie Otersen

Shanice describes her collection as an expression of social anxiety, and wants to portray the feeling of being constantly observed and judged by others. Three different prints were introduced, where photos of eyes were used as a motive to illustrate the element of being watched. The prints were captivating and Shanice created beautiful looks, mixing different prints and textures boldly. We loved the glossy, red vinyl mixed with the printed pieces, and how she played with daring silhouettes while still keeping a graceful and feminine touch. The items were highly wearable – we would love to wear the wool coat or the printed turtleneck! Can we get one of everything please?

At the show Shanice gave us her business card, witch was made out of material that is suited for cleaning screens, and we thought this was such a clever idea, being able to utilize the business card for something else than just information!

 

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

 

Mia Dalsgaard

This collection is called ‘The Roses Walking’, and is inspired by the fascinating features of roses. The looks brought pastel cuteness and young boldness to the runway, and we were taken on an adventure to the stylish streets of Tokyo, with her kawaii styling and girly details. The garments folded out in voluminous way, and the individual pieces were layered beautifully, reminding us of a delicate rose in bloom. It was feminine, yet bold, embracing cuteness and empowerment at the same time. Pearls, faux fur and ruffles added a unique touch to the overall soft feel of this beautiful collection, and any piece from ‘The Roses Walking’ collection would be the ultimate kawaii spice a girl needs for any outfit!

 

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

 

Miriam Daiana Calianco

In Miriam‘s collection she worked with the color yellow and anxiety as her main inspirations. Through her designs, she wants to express the psychological meaning behind the perception of yellow. Her garments impressed us with their craftmanship and use of texture. Each and every look presented something interesting and unique, and the complexity of the textile structures were easy to associate with complex human emotion. We loved how she combined contrasts – bright yellow and busy details were styled with plain and straight black. These contrasts made the collection wearable and there was something for all occasions – a chunky knit and a wool coat for the winter, a flashy mesh one-piece for a crazy night out, as well as wide-legged pants and a LBD for the more formal occasions. Miriam’s collection is where class and sass come together in a beautiful harmony.

 

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

 

Nickie Geneser Bach

Last but not least, Nickie wowed us with her magnificent collection – her designs were inspired by dreams, and how they interfere with human reality. We were excited by her play with abstract form and colors, and how she created shapes and graphic fantasies out of fabric structures. Nicky mainly used handwoven royal Thai silk for her collection, and after the show she told us about her fascination with the fabric, how she loved to immerse herself in the experimentation of fabric manipulation, and the creation of different expressions. Using various methods, Nickie constructed intriguing textures and depths in her garments leaving us in awe. Her tailoring skills were evident in the smooth fit of the styles, and it was obvious that a lot of love had been put into every single detail. Wearing one of these outfits would truly be a dream come true!

 

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

CPHFW AW19 Via Design

 

Congratulations to all of the talented VIA Design graduates, and the best of luck with your future creative pursuits, from all of us at Nordic Style!


For more of our CPHFW AW19 coverage, follow us on Instagram and read our collection reviews