CPHFW AW19: Cecilie Bahnsen – Innovation Through Repetition

Cecilie Bahnsen is back. Her Fall/Winter collection went on show at the Copenhagen Fashion Week yesterday, and it was certainly invigorating, adding a glint of menace to her characteristic delicate femininity. The palette, though characteristically black and white, has been injected with yellow, and tulle items, which have been embroidered with previously unseen floral designs.

 

 

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen

 

Bahnsen says the floral patterning was inspired by decaying wallpaper, and it was given a distressed quality to give the illusion, in certain lighting, that the clothes are unravelling. For the darker colour palettes, she explains, she has taken inspiration from the sinister work of American photographers William Eggleston and Zoe Leonard. She was particularly interested in Leonard’s photographs of the early 1990s, particularly a series of New York City before gentrification took hold, that show now vanished street signs and storefronts. His photographs, like Cecilie Bahnsen’s designs, are crowded, but also simple enough to attract attention without distraction.

 

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen

 

Taking on-board Leonard’s use of repetition, a useful tool in fashion, where the viewer is forced to look closely in order to determine subtle variations. This is reflected in her choice of music: a brooding soundtrack from Danish electronic composer Anders Trentemøller. This collection sees Bahnsen bring more casual shapes into her aesthetic, with fabric wrapped loosely around the upper body and peplum tops making prominent appearances. Her designs, however, remain both wearable and interesting. By taking Leonard’s lead, she proves that repetition doesn’t necessarily mean monotony.

 

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen

CPHFW AW19 Cecilie Bahnsen


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