CPHFW AW19: Søren Le Schmidt – Cool Kids of Eveningwear

Known for his exquisite tailoring and a young approach to formal wear, Søren Le Schmidt did not disappoint this season. His AW19 collection, presented in the transparent high-tech interiors of Nordea HQ, resonated mild corporate tones encased in a cool kids subculture aesthetic.

 

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

 

Bottle green and mustard yellow were the colours that took the lead in this collection, and broke down the otherwise monochromatic hues of cappuccino beige and black. In true Søren fashion, we saw some unexpected patterns and elements weaved into evening garments, such as military camo or retro lime-tinged glasses. A reconstructed pinstripe tuxedo cape made an appearance twice, both on a female and male model, which did not go unnoticed among those hoping to see more gender fluidity on red carpets in the future. We, for one, loved it!

 

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

 

Søren Le Schmidt managed to make a connection between gowns fit for royalty, and pieces that could easily be incorporated into streetwear, proving once more the versatility and wearability of his designs. He re-imagined the standard shapes by adding a daring, plunging back or an asymmetrical aspect – a standard black jacket was cropped at the waist, giving life to a piece that would otherwise go in the ‘playing it safe’ category. The tuxedos were worn with wide culotte-style trousers, bringing a fresh touch to classic dressing solutions.

Throughout the entire collection, a lot of attention was drawn to small, recurring details worn with each garment. Gothic tattoos across the neck, leather bumbags attached at the waist, and simple belts with the SLS logo united the models in their underground gang of cool. Søren definitely flirted with different cultures here, creating a modern alternative to what’s already been revisited many times, all the while, he maintained high quality and skilfulness, combining the classy and refined with the carelessness and fluidity of streetwear.

 

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW

Søren Le Schmidt AW19 CPHFW


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