2018 is here and the fashion month(s) is here. We’re beginning this year with Fashion Week Stockholm and what a display of collections that was on offer. From old time favorites Whyred and Emelie Janrell, to the ever-invigorating Beckmans showcase and party-bringers Lazoschmidl. Here are all the designers and looks you need to pay attention to for the season ahead…
Paying tribute to long-term clothing and idea of everything having a place in your wardrobe, Hope brought out tight silhouettes, bold tailoring and something for everyone. While wanting to encourage the idea of respect for one’s clothing, that doesn’t mean you can’t update your wardrobe. The idea of the collection is to mix and match items, showcasing individuality in how things are worn and an essence of clothing code anarchy.
Ida Klamborn’s presentation was a feast for the senses, taking viewers through a series of rooms that acted as the compartments of your mind. Models played dress-up and the collection was an opinion on self-gaze, giving a safe space to admire one’s self and be who you want to be. Dresses were see-through, hemlines were short and trousers were big. It was all about power dressing and loving yourself, with metallics, soft velvet, and mesh, making you look twice.
Simple, chic, and colorful. Taking inspiration from the German artist Josef Albers, outfits came in bold blue, red and soft camel with sharp tailoring, peeks of soft skin and sultry silhouettes. Fine fabrics and timeless shapes are a characteristic of the brand, wanting to attract women who desire looks to sustain them over the years rather than seasonal trends to throw away.
‘Deliciously elegant’ is how Emelie Janrell described her latest collection, and we couldn’t agree more! Combining hot metallics, thigh-slit dresses, and figure-hugging trouser suits, it was a celebration of being sexy and not having to suppress your feelings and your desires. ‘Shouldn’t we walk with pride? Faced with the choice of being perceived as either dull or arrogant; should we settle for anything less than deliciously elegant?’
Be vulnerable yet invincible and at the same time
be strong yet weak and
be drunk but sober,
staying high but grounded and stable but chaotic
The poem by Jon York reflects the collection in many ways; west meets east, soft meets rough and masculine meets feminine. Classic shapes were deconstructed and reconstructed into new things, and mixing cultures and heritage adorned garments in knitted patterns. The Dagmar woman is spending time at her home this autumn, mixing and matching her interiors, making her personal space more personal. Colors, prints, and people from all over the world inspire her and keep her warm during the long nights, but don’t take away any of her personality, just simply exaggerate it.
Believe it or not, Paul and Linda McCartney were the inspiration behind Whyred’s collection, taking their song ‘Darkroom’ as an idea to express what is hiding inside. Combing renaissance art and the Whyred DNA, championing creativity, progressiveness, and consideration. Pea coats, trench coats, white shirts paired with jeans and suits came down the runway in mainly muted colors and odd splashes of pattern, but it made for a collection of relaxed juxtapositions and city cool.
Anyone want to party? Because that is what Lasoschmidl brings to the table. Taking ideas from 90’s Leonardo Dicaprio and boybands, this collection was all presenting something new and fun. Not known for cohesiveness, the color palette covered the entire rainbow and the garments varied from rough leather and denim, to soft sheer fabrics and faux fur. There was a lot of crazy details and pairings of fabrics, and although we know this collection is not for everyone, you have to admire the spirit and outrageous individuality.
Cherishing tradition and leather, Stand looks to take luxurious materials and translate them into a woman’s everyday wardrobe. Staple pieces were the foundation of the collection, providing a choice of colors and shapes to take you through different occasions. Even though leather is the center of the brand, they wanted to play with imitation and provide a variety of colors, giving something subtle and radical at the same time.
Every year Beckmans College of Design showcases their best students’ collections, and this season, we were not disappointed. There was no time to relax during the presentation, as every student made sure they used their time wisely to show their abilities. We also enjoy seeing the innovation and imagination that comes from new design talent and we look forward to seeing what comes from the graduates in the future.
Julia Correira De Verdier
Felicia Halén Fredell
Having become a household name over the past few years, Elin Kling and Karl Lindman have created the perfect embodiment of Scandinavian minimalism. Totême approaches collections with a transeasonal aesthetic in mind; oversized proportions, bias cuts, and a limited color palette. There’s nothing that stands out, but that’s not to say that the collection is sub-par, if anything it is the perfect mix. The looks are wearable and modern, perfect for city living, but still exciting and challenging. Colder months means the need to keep warm, but instead of swaddling their models in knits and layers, Elin and Karl have used shape and the pairing of unconventional pieces.
Photos: Fashion Week in Stockholm
Tags: aw18, fashion, favorites, fwstockholm
Sophia Groves is a photographer, graphic designer, and writer based in London, and co-founder of the production company View From The Van Productions.
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