By Malene Birger hosted a trip to São Paolo for their SS18 presentation. Well, not a real trip, but kind of. We stayed in Copenhagen but were figuratively transported across the Atlantic to the jungle-filled land of Brazil. We were treated with the full experience, from South American soda to sand and music.
“This collection is my love letter to São Paulo. I don’t think it’s a love-at-first-sight city. It’s so big and there is a lot of concrete. But then you discover an artists’ neighborhood, where they have painted murals on the sidewalk, and something clicks. It’s a city that gets under your skin – full of contrasts and lush rainforest. Everything feels so new and inspiring.” – Christina Exsteen, Creative Director, By Malene Birger
When only thinking of the garments, stripping away all the surrounding elements, this large collection seemed to lack a bit cohesiveness at first. Maybe it’s the same feeling that describes São Paulo as a city that you don’t fall in love with instantly. Because the Brazilian vibe is beautifully evident throughout, although sometimes only seen in the ropes that held the bags together, created their handles or made sure the dresses rested on the models’ shoulders. These ropes, which we actually saw presented in different ways throughout the fashion week, resembled some of Acne Studios’ AW15 pieces. In conclusion, I was positively surprised by many looks that had modernity and felt incredibly relevant, exotic yet Scandi-fresh. These were all nicely combined with the classic By Malene Birger clean and neat aesthetic, which we all have come to love over the years.
“I wanted the collection to explore tropical escapes and deserted beaches, but at the same time be rooted in contrast with the city – because there is always more than one side to women’s lives.” – Christina Exsteen, Creative Director, By Malene Birger
“The modernist architect Lina Bo Bardi has been a big influence for me lately. In the 1950s, she built the Glass House for herself, a penthouse in the middle of the jungle on the edge of São Paulo. The contrast between the wild tropical rainforest, the beautiful modernist architecture and mid-century furniture is just breath-taking. Here, the only thing that separates you from the jungle is huge glass windows. Lina was a fearless woman. She rebelled against conventions and that connects to our woman this season. She is a free spirit – she loves to travel and to collect, adding to her style¬¬ like an exotic magpie. The wave print is inspired by the black and white mosaic sidewalks you see in São Paulo, which we have translated into prints and sumptuous textures.” – Christina Exsteen, Creative Director, By Malene Birger
Tags: by malene birger, ss18
Jonas is a writer based in Stockholm.
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