Today’s show was a tribute to The Cramps’ lead singer Poison Ivy. Jonny Johanssen called upon her fearlessness and expressive nature to adorn his models in evocative colours and fabrics, with big shapes and cinched waists. Although Poison Ivy was very into fetishwear and a lot of latex (the symbol of the trade when working as a dominatrix), the rubber on the catwalk was a lot more demure and not so ghoulish.
Presenting quite a calm colour paletter of greys, beiges and subtle golds, the occasional burst of californian orange, pillarbox red and aqua was well placed. Like the coveted shearling jacket of the current season, next season you’ll see Acne girls in mini quilted puffer jackets and oversized rubber trench coats. There was plenty of layering of colours and textures to add dimension to the cold weather of the later months, and you’ll be pleased to hear the Johanssen likes his girls’ legs warm – tights and leg warmers, wader-style thigh-high boots, and billowing trousers.
My favourite look was a simple one that I believed summed up the collection well; large, colourful and sexy. There was the right amount of disheveled layering and punk aesthetic, but the signature Acne minimalism shone through. Teaming an off-shoulder electric blue quilted jacket and grey rubber mini dress together with leopard print tights and rope-tied heels provided a look of confidence and a sultry air. All the models had a wet-look side sweep that was just on the border of sweaty punk hair, but still on the side of effortless grooming. It’s this ability to take some many wide-ranging influences, but keep the Acne minimal touch every season, that has seen the Swedish fashion house amass and keep such a deserved cult following.
Jonny Johanssen did well to translate Poison Ivy’s colourful and eccentric dressing into a collection that showed thoughtful layering and colour combinations. Get ready for an Acne army of dishevelled colour this Autumn, because this collection will definitely be everywhere.
Also read: Acne Studios Men’s Fall/Winter 2016
Also check out: Acne Studios Interior Design Inspiration
Also of Interest: Acne Studios SS16
Collection photos courtesy of British Vogue
Recommended read: The Radical Feminist! – Acne Studios
Tags: Acne Studios, aw16, fashion
Sophia Groves is a photographer, graphic designer, and writer based in London, and co-founder of the production company View From The Van Productions.
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