Oslo Runway showcased the developed of Norwegian design in one of the most recognised buildings in Oslo, the Opera House. In a development for this season an off schedule show was added at the creative Norwegian boutique F5. By establishing this showcase young designers were given the opportunity to present their collections to the international press who were also in town for larger mainstream shows. The store was transformed into a slick minimalist venue and produced shows that exceeded expectations receiving recognition from international press and bloggers alike. Having presented at NYFW for the past two seasons the crew was happy to finally have a collective showing on home ground in front of a packed crowd.
Androgynous designs can be hard to pull off appeal to both sexes. Gloria and Magne of AUMA seem to have found the perfect balance embracing both masculine and feminine identities in an urban environment. Longline shirts, cropped sweaters, loose and fitted garments all blended effortlessly. It wasn’t until after the show and inspecting pieces like the PVC jacket that we were fully able to appreciate the time and detail the team at AUMA put into their AW16 collection.
The reversed floral fabric was somewhat of a standout, what is the sourcing process like for AUMA?
The sourcing process is much fun, as it is our starting point for each collection. I normally envision the collection in the different types of materials, prints, and colours that best will express our mood, theme or concept. We also consider each materials intended use, expression, durability and other aspects. Thereafter we order a lot of swatches from our fabric suppliers and manufacturers to see and feel it all, before starting the sampling process.
The boys at GRAA who have literally tried their hand at most things seem to have found their comfort zone for AW16. With backgrounds in the skating community it is natural for elements to flow through into the design and styling process, the functional shoelace belt has been a staple on the streets and looked right at home on the runway styled with dress pants and shirt. Doubling up on denim has always been a favourite of mine and the zip up turtle neck underneath gave enough of a break to take the look from cowboy to street.
After taking the label to New York what was it like presenting in front of your home crowd during Oslo Runway?
As much I loved showin our two previous collections in New York, it was really fun to be able to have our friends and family on the front row. Showing at F5 was also very rewarding as this is the place we go to work at everyday, it made the whole show so personal. Our main customer group is based in Oslo, so it felt really natural to make the show more accessible to them.
The brand seems to have moved in a new direction compared to SS16 with the introduction of jewellery and an elaborate denim collection, is this something you are looking to strengthen further?
As the collection color palette was based on different minerals, I wanted to make some jewelry to go with the collection, these are showpieces and I am not yet sure if we will move in that direction for the next collection as well, but it was really fun doing them, as I have not worked with jewelry since high school. We will definitely keep doing jeans, we have done some sort of denim pieces in almost all our collections till now. Our first proper denim line will drop Aug/sept 2016 and we are really looking forward to that!
The designer behind the Charlie Logo Sweat that is quickly becoming a staple among Oslo’s most fashionable, presented a laid back city chic collection of chunky cardigans, oversized knits and perfect layering pieces to compliment your winter wardrobe.
The excellent layering and garment versatility stood out. Do you prefer designing for Autumn/Winter?
Thank you! Not really! I feel like I have been more playful with my Spring/Summer collections before. For both seasons I always play with inspiration mixed with a personal need. In the Summer I have to go away to a warmer place in order to know what I am missing in a wardrobe. With the temperatures in Oslo you can survive with jeans and a tank-top, the heat will never suffocate you. But when you are in a very warm place, I realise the actual needs in a Summer wardrobe.
As for winter, the need is instant and I know straight away when the cold hits what I miss in my wardrobe. Previous seasons have been focusing on darker colors, blues and blacks, this time I really wanted to make something fresh and colorful. Its quite hard to find very colorful clothing in the cold months in Norway that are warm, and I miss that. Its no secret that I love layering and that is easier to do in the Winter.
Although a feminine women’s collection, there are items that can be unisex, is adding a range for men on the horizon?
Yes, definitely, but not just yet! I think I will focus for now on making garments that are versatile and can be worn by everyone. Also, in order to be true to the concept of c.l.e.a.n. I need to really tap into the codes, rules and need in menswear. What do you miss, what do you wear the most, what does your complete wardrobe consist of?
Two brothers behind F5 also are the creative duo behind ARCT, a label that originally started out producing accessories and has since developed into a full ready to wear line with subtle, sometimes obscure references. The label used technological progress and childhood ideals of the future for their AW16 inspiration presenting a strong offering of leather goods, raw edged denim and Norwegian manufactured wool outerwear.
Scandi chic has been popularised around the world, how has your approach to fashion differed from what has become common from the neighbours in Sweden and Denmark?
While the Danes and the Swedes have mastered the minimalist approach, with some brands as exceptions to the rule, we try to make stuff that is just as wearable, but perhaps a bit more interesting and daring. We keep it subtle, but try to experiment and have fun when creating the collections.
The AW16 collection ‘Utopish’ explored your ideas of the future from when you were kids. Did your childhood visions really involve this much leather?
Leather was very apparent in some of the 90´s and early 2000´s visions of the future, such as The Matrix. Also, it is one of our favorite materials to work with. Good leather is both durable and luxurious.
Photos from Tuva Winslöw Dyvik
Tags: f5, oslo runway
Hailing from the west coast of New Zealand, Kelsey now resides in Oslo, Norway. His appreciation for functional well–made garments was gained during his time living in Japan and he loves the clean lines and minimalistic approach that Nordic designers have towards menswear. Kelsey is currently studying his Master's Degree in Scandinavia Consumer Culture and one day aims to open his own retail store.
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