For the upcoming colder seasons, Peter Jensen provided us with a figure of laid-back eccentricity. Taking inspiration from Peggy Guggenheim and the staple uniform of punk rockers, the collection brought a bright and liberated women to the end of this year. The American heiress was a glamorous and independent woman, who led a very colourful life in both lovers and dressing, and Jensen was captivated by her spirit and ‘can do’ attitude.
Guggenheim paired her fur coats with fishnets and sensible shoes, so the fishnets were kept, and the fur coats were swapped for oversized jumpers, frilly lab coats, and modern misshapen patterns. Bringing the heiress’ style into the modern world, her fishnet tights were teamed with black Chuck Taylors, dishevelled ringlet hair, and what I call an Art Deco lip. Some of the models wore rain covers over their shoes, mirroring those worn by people in Venice to save their footwear from the muddy canals. The graphics, colours and textures work so well together in the collection, that I know Jensen has found a sure fire way to introduce a bit of the wild side into everyone’s life. The patterns are interesting but not too crazy, and the colours are simple and do not clash. There’s enough texture to allow for heaps of layering on those cold days we know will come around sooner than we want, and there’s plenty of garment shapes for everyone to take their pick from.
While gazing at the women perched on their paint-dripped pedestals, it was hard to ignore the huge influence taken from Alexander Calder’s artwork. The American artist, known as the inventor of the hanging mobile, or what he called ‘stabiles’, created beautiful wire structures made of an array of shapes and colours. These coloured shapes and wires were seen adorning a range of Jensen’s collection pieces, adding to the mismatched, but some how cohesive nature of the collection. To bring the two world’s even closer, Becca Hulbert created earrings for the collection that mimicked those created by Calder for Peggy Guggenheim, and this was the perfect way to tie his vision together.
For more on the colourful and kooky life of Peggy Guggenheim, the documentary ‘Peggy Guggenheim: Art Addict’ is available to watch on iTunes or on DVD NOW. You can also watch highlights from Peter Jensen’s beautifully eclectic presentation on the British Fashion Council’s Youtube channel HERE, and see our favourite looks from the collection below!
Presentation photos courtesy of British Vogue
Tags: aw16, LFW, Peter Jensen
Sophia Groves is a photographer, graphic designer, and writer based in London, and co-founder of the production company View From The Van Productions.
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