CPHFW – Nicholas Nybro AW16

Nicholas Nybro is back with his AW16 collection, following up his SS16 “The snow queen” collection. Inspired by his favorite fairytale written by H.C. Andersen. His new collection “Snow queen”, part 2 shows a much deeper and darker side of his design.

A bold collection orbiting around the color dark black and gray, to white, to bloody red.

The collection was divided into three parts, three themes that it was constructed around. “The escape”, “The innocents” and “The beating heart”. Themes that very clearly could be identified in the different parts.  Starting with a dark section made out by heavy knits, oversized silhouettes and functional layering. The models were accessorized with black blocks tied together, buckles and tamps, giving clear references to, moving or packing ones luggage and escaping. The pieces progressed with elements of metallic in gold and silver. Seemingly moving from a subclass into something closer to royal upper class – maybe a reference that everyone is on the run from something, regardless of status.

The following sections takes us to the light and good side of the fairytale, featuring barefoot models wearing, light almost transparent creations with cut outs and flowy silhouettes. A schools book example of innocents.

The last part contained  bloody red Avant-Garde inspired pieces described by Nicholas himself as “the body, the blood and the beating heart”. Full length sweater dresses, with hoodies covering everything except red painted lips was relieved by grand creations reminding of the wardrobes of ancient royalties. Experimental materials such as plastic fringes were used to create effective trails and even an all covering head piece.

Nybro really told his audience a story with his AW16 collection, everything from the design to the dramatic eye make up and the childish braids that framed the faces of the girls created an imaginative atmosphere where everyday laws did´t  apply.

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Photo credit: copenhagenfashionweek.com