TEKO Design and Business Academy CPHFW AW14

TEKO Design and Business Academy graduates’ show was held in the majestic building of the Copenhagen City Hall as one of the last shows on the OFF SCHEDULE of Copenhagen Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 14. However it was definitely not the least attention worthy show during the event. As ususal, it was thrilling to see those young, super-creative designers with their fresh-from-the-oven collections.

TEKO takes pride in being the largest design academy in Scandinavia. The Academy lets it’s students in on the secrets of arts and crafts when it comes to design itself, but also thanks to it’s strong bounds with fashion business, keeps their feet firmly on the ground. Nevertheless anyone expecting the graduates’ colletions to be a set of safe, predictable pieces would have been heavily disapointed. Collections were defined, consistent and consequent, and all the silhouettes were crafted with great attention to detail. What was very pleasing to see, there was a wide variety of inspirations and individual approach to defining the silhouette shapes and working with the colour and texture. Knits appeared as a very strong category in many collections – from oversized forms through a fitted jumpsuit to pieces strongly inspired by the iconic Barbara I Gongini’s dark, dramatic style. Another visibly strong trend – the extra-large volume cocoon forms wrapped around the body, shown either in cozy, texurised, oversized shapes, or in sharp cut folds, which made silhouettes look rough and powerful. Also the idea of mixing different fabric finishings and playing with conventional dress code, like putting a crisp white button-up shirt under a shiny coated tee or shorts to a classic jacket, had a hint of bravery in it. The ascetic, minimalistic trend appeared in the show as well, and was executed in a perfect, Scandinavian way. What was missing in the show, was a few more sculptural shaped pieces with more complicated constructions – although there were outfits in which we could see an attempt to pull that idea off.

All in all it was a very interesting experience to have a look at what the young designers who are just about to appear on the scene, have to offer. It was quite a kaleidoscope of inspirations and a mix of personalities. Surely we can expect great things from them in the nearest future.

TEKO aw14 knitsMORE THAN A KNIT

TEKO aw 14 cocoonLARGE VOLUME COCOON

TEKO aw14 layersSHARP EDGED LAYERS

TEKO aw14 minimalMINIMAL CHIC

TEKO aw14 mixedSHINE/MATT MIX

TEKO aw14 sculptedSCULPTURAL CONSTRUCTION

Photos courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week.