School shows are always a highly anticipated venue. While established brands and designers always have to have the customer in mind when making their collections, students have the possibility to let their creativity flow freely without considering commerciality at all. The result is sometimes utterly weird, usually at least a little bit strange, but always very inspiring. The purpose of the graduate shows are to present new ideas and possibilities. When commercial designer brands make their collections, they’re made for this world. It’s clothes that you might or might not want to wear, but that you definitely could wear. Fashion students have the opportunity to create their own fantasy worlds. You might not want to inhabit all of them but it makes you think of the possibilities of an at least slightly different world, or this world in a totally different shape and color.
At The Swedish School of Textiles fashion is understood in its broadest sense, and the collections from the bachelor and master students that showed on Tuesday, looks at fashion from many different angles. The “Exit 13” show presents the graduate collections from 15 bachelor and master students. Of all these microcosms the one I would like to move into the most is Karolina Perssons “This heaven gives me migrane”. With a gorgeous mix of yellow and pink, lots of volume, interesting structure and a soft padded feeling, she has made a collection that is at the same time childhood nostalgic and futuristic.
The world of Gustav Falgén on the other hand, is not a place I would like to be within. It’s a rough place filled with hooligans with balaclavas, bomber jackets and boots. All items typical for the 1990’s neo-Nazis. By twisting these symbols of violence I suppose Gustav’s idea is to investigate the possibilities of changing the associations of this look.
At the softer side of the spectra is Elias Höberg’s collection CTRL +V, where large flower prints looks as pasted onto plastic, or vivid red. It has a modern kind of minimalistic romanticism. Feminine without being sweet or cute.
Saina Koohnavard calls her collection Chicipedia and it consists of a combination of renaissance puffy shoulders and brocade mixed with modern colors, fabrics and lines. When the models passed by their exaggerated rears became visible. With padded bums the clothes gave a positive answer to the too often asked question: does my bum look big in this?
As a part of their collaboration with Swedish School of Textiles, the big fashion chain Lindex sponsored the Exit 13-show. Lindex also awards a prize for the best deisgn idea, and the winner this year is Emma Lindqvist. The jury’s motivation reads: “We fell for the fantastic prints and Emma’s mastery of colors. A collection where the simple garments accentuate the advanced structure of the prints in a nice and obvious way.” The prize? To design a collection for Lindex that will be launched in the beginning of 2014. Something to look really forward to.
If there was one theme that could be seen in more than one of the collections, it was a way of combining sharp shapes with graphic patterns in black and white with a few accent colors. Like Emelie Arvidssons “End of Line”:
and Ida Klamborn’s collection Trace.
And Zizi Zhu’s collection named (Wenjing Zhu)
These are but a few of the talented young designers, see the whole show here and get inspired to create your own world.
Photos by Kristian Löveborg www.mbfw.se
Tags: exit13, mbfwsthlm, Stockholm Fashion week, Swedish school of Textiles
Anna is a Swedish freelance writer and cultural studies student. Her main subjects are fashion theory and literature. She lives in Stockholm, loves flea markets and gets inspired by kids and old ladies. She collects clothes, fabrics and books and used to have a vintageshop named Mint & Vintage.
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