Things have been going really well for House of Dagmar lately, or actually it has been a steady upward curve since they started in 2005. They have won several prestigious awards and have lately gotten a lot of attention internationally, especially in the UK. Their design philosophy is described as arty chic and they have always been very picky when it comes to materials and quality. These three sisters, head designer Kristina Tjäder, Karin Söderlind with a background in brand management and PR, and Sofia Wallenstam with a broad experience of retail, really know what they are doing. They have stayed true to their original idea, the unconventional and sophisticated style that has made them so popular, and at the same time they have always been in the forefront of fashion. Dagmar has succeeded in making both well-tailored everyday wear for working women, high-quality knitwear for everyone, and attracting the fashionable more daring customers with exciting cuts, prints and textures.
The SS14 collection is no exception. The collection is described as “a study of the changing moods between day-time and night-time in Stockholm” and the inspiration comes from artist Rebecka Bebben Andersson’s art work “Nolli Stockholm”, that graphically maps out the safer and rougher areas of Stockholm. And just as the day starts light and bright, the collection begins with white and beautiful transparent layers. As the show goes on the colors become darker and at the end the easy breezy white morning is replaced with heavy structured knits that look almost like metal splinters, and fine knitted skirts and dresses in a black and white graphic noisy pattern. The very last styles are a relaxed pajamas suit dress in beige-apricot silk and a full-length dress with a bare back in the same color and material. A truly beautiful dress on the model but almost impossible to wear for anyone with anything but a flawless body. It comes in other colors as well though, not shown on the runway but available for buyers. Thank God/Dagmar.
As before there are some styles that re-appear from season to season combined with the fresh and new. Every season since their start Dagmar has made at least one original print. This season there is a quite dark watercolour-like print in blue, burgundy, yellow, red and orange that looks like stripes of city lights blurred by rain. That print on a full-length, deep V-lined, highly slit dress will no doubt be a success at summer parties and weddings.
It’s a well-edited, coherent and beautiful collection, my only complaint is that I think they could have downplayed the carpet-rug-like knits that feel a bit heavy for spring.
Photos by Kristian Löveborg www.mbfw.se
You can see the whole collection here.
Tags: dagmar, house of dagmar, mbfwsthlm, review, ss14
Anna is a Swedish freelance writer and cultural studies student. Her main subjects are fashion theory and literature. She lives in Stockholm, loves flea markets and gets inspired by kids and old ladies. She collects clothes, fabrics and books and used to have a vintageshop named Mint & Vintage.
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